Bubbly's Best

Style Watch: Rattan Revolution Diversions: All Talk Food: Season to Taste Outdoors: Comfy Camping

Every Champagne lover owes it to himself to make a pilgrimage to the place where the bubbles are born—and it's only an hour-plus train ride from Paris. But be warned: the climate in Champagne can be lousy. Even in July, I've felt as chilled as a glass of Blanc de Blanc while visiting one of Moët & Chandon's vineyards near Epernay. And in the fall, when vendange is underway and you can watch as the grapes are harvested by hand, it can be cool indeed. But it's the weather, along with the area's chalky, bone-white soil, that helps this region of France produce the best of bubbly.

Two days should suffice for an even-paced visit that includes the essential comforts (great food and lodging) and exciting champagne. Experience the Grande Marques—the Clicquots, Moëts and others that make world-class, world-famous wines. Art lovers should visit the impressive chalk caves of Champagne Pommery in the town of Reims, where edgy art installations and Art Nouveau carvings complement the 20 million bottles of champagne resting inside. While most wineries are open to visitors, some houses, like Krug, Salon and Bollinger, are open only by appointment, and it helps to know someone. But to peer deeply into the soul of the region, you must visit the independent producers, makers of the so-called grower champagnes. Such vignerons carry on a love affair with their land. It shows in their complex wines. If you call for an appointment, they will receive you with grace. Some of those I visited and adored were Camille Savès in Bouzy, Jacquesson in Dizy, Larmandier-Bernier in Vertus and Leclerc Briant in Epernay. Pascal Leclerc Briant has an eccentric flair as well as an ability to make beautiful champagnes. If you inquire ahead (see www.leclercbriant.com), for a smallish fee you can learn to saber a champagne bottle. Holding the thick sword on the bottle's neck, I didn't think I could do it. But I shouted like a little kid when I sliced off the bottle's top in one fell swoop. There's something about the region that helps everyone's bubbles rise to the surface.