Business: Haute Couture

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To get their news of last week's openings, most big U. S. department stores were in constant cable communication with Paris. B. Altman & Co. went a step further, with a transatlantic telephone service. This scheme was originated last year by Altaian's top Fashion Copywriter Laura Hobson. Young, smart Advertising Director John C. Wood planned to launch a display campaign in newspapers and magazines this week to publicize the new designs. The trends of fashions as Altman and other stores studied them last week: There are three predominant silhouets —medieval, crinoline, Empire. Empire features long toe-length skirts and extremely high waists to emphasize the curve of the bosom. The crinoline type, adorned with bows and puffs, has a hoopskirt effect. The ecclesiastic medieval silhouet, which fashion experts predict will be the most popular, emphasizes slim waists, full sweeping skirts, and necklines either demurely high or wickedly low. But since it is impossible to look ecclesiastical in feathery chiffon materials, the medieval silhouet is certain to have far-reaching effects upon the fabric world. Dresses of this type must be made of stiff velvets, bulky slipper satins, heavy faille taffeta.

Tweeds have come off the golf course into the drawing room, are now correct for tea. Reason: the informal shirt waist has been supplanted by blouses of stiff velvet, chenille, soft duvetyn.

Furs are used extensively for trimming and edging, but big fur collars are frowned upon. Most amusing fur note is an Astrakhan muff shaped like a dachshund. Hats, also exotic, feature the stovepipe which sits high on the head, the Francois Villon, and the tiny velvet head turban with three and only three feathers. Skirts are split, but not notably longer than last year, varying from floor length to 15 in. above the floor. Trains are conspicuously absent. Predominant dress colors are black, "poison" green, purple.