Magazine content is available exclusively for TIME subscribers.TEXAS: Queens Back
A bright spot in old San Antonio until 1937 was its Hay Market Plaza. There, on the Mexican West Side at evening charcoal blazed under open pots and Mexican "Chili Queens" served hot tamales, enchiladas, tortillas, chili-&-beans, famed menudo (tender tripe and hominy) to customers at sidewalk tables. Then San Antonio authorities ran the "Chili Queens" off the Plaza as a "sanitary" measure.
Last fortnight San Antonio's new Mayor Maury Maverick solemnly advised a group of local respectables that they were violating the law by banqueting out-of-doors. If he and they could break the law, Maury Maverick went on to say,...
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