FARMING: The Fruit King

Amid the sunshine and fruit trees on his 10,000-acre ranch near Arvin, Calif., Joseph Di Giorgio, 71, imperiously watched workmen pour concrete for what will be the world's largest winery.

Like many a little king, Joe Di Giorgio was not satisfied, although he grows more plums and Bartlett pears than anybody else in California, more oranges and grapefruit than anybody else in Florida, more grapes than anybody else on earth. So he was spending more than $1,000,000 for his new winery, which will eventually hold two million gallons in fermentation tanks, another...