The Hemisphere: Salmon & Pancakes

Izaak Walton called salmon "the king of fresh-water fish." In New Brunswick's famed Restigouche River, the Atlantic salmon are not only king-size (up to 48 Ibs.), but the sport of hooking them takes a regal bankroll. Fishing leases cost up to $25,000 a year for the exclusive Restigouche clubs, where rosters are studded with names like Du Pont, Vanderbilt and Whitney. Even in the limited government waters, the fee is $40 a rod per day, and only 70 permits are issued each year.

Along with their permits, visitors to the government's fishing lodge get a chance to sample the famed "Trail Blazer Pancakes" turned out by David Ogilvy, 74, the lodge's gaunt, oracular manager. Last week, after "building pancakes by feel" for more than half a century, Dave Ogilvy set down in his own words his pancake "receipt":

"Take four mixing-spoonfuls of Barbados molasses; two hen's eggs, or one loon's egg; one pint of creamy milk, or one pint of new-fallen snow which also has a rising virtue, and one pint of water. Beat this together.

"Then the dry mix. Flour: two parts white, one part whole wheat. Add baking powder, two tablespoons. Add salt to taste —if the party had a drink the night before, add a little bit more salt so they can taste the pancake. Put it through the sifter together. Then stir until the batter is smooth.

"Have your griddle greased with a slab of bacon rind or some salt pork skin. Heat to the proper temperature to produce the deep orange glow so essential to the seductive pancake.

"Serve with butter and real rock-maple syrup and a few slivers of bacon thrown in on the side."