Fashion: The Leggy Look

The new spring look in style, if New York designers have their way, will be dominated by dresses that show lots of leg, arm and neck. That is what emerged from the closet at the semi-annual fashion showing of the New York Couture Group this week in Manhattan, where 51 leading designers showed off their spring styles to 250 fashion editors—and invited them to play the game of guessing which ones will catch on with U.S. women.

The designers think they know. They have replaced belts with sashes, bared arms and necks, lowered hiplines, emphasized the bloused dress and overblouse. Skirts, which have been rising steadily, will be the shortest in years. Many dresses will be full in front, have slashed pockets for the casual look. Designers are going all out for the culotte (which Norman Norell made fashionable), this spring will present it in everything from boyish pant-skirts to evening dresses. The big coat has been slowly coming back, and Originala, one of the top U.S. coat houses, hopes to make its capelike coat the trend this spring.

Dressmakers have decided to gamble on pushing the one-shouldered look, have used it on everything from evening dresses to swimsuits. They think that it will catch on if the younger set takes to it. The trend in suits is to the hip-tip length, with built up and wider shoulders. Fashion colors will be almost anything but black, will favor navy blue, white, pink and violet.

But the biggest hit of all may be the easy, understated look favored by Jackie Kennedy, who last week topped the list of the world's twelve best-dressed women.* (She once said that "being a fashion leader is at the very bottom of the list of things I desire.") Oleg Cassini, Jackie's official designer, introduced a figure-following dress with a natural waistline and scoop neckline. "I did not make it for her," said Cassini, "but I think she might enjoy wearing it." Seventh Avenue hopes that Mrs. Kennedy will like the dress and buy it. For if she does, the easy-to-copy dress should keep the dressmakers busy.