Wine: California Crus

Every good liquor store has vintage charts that objectively rate French and German wines from great to poor, but no such lists exist for American wines.

To fill that gap, Restaurateur Victor Bergeron, better known in 13 U.S. cities as Trader Vic, rallied 20 oenological experts for a year's study, and last week uncorked the first guide to the wines of California, whose annual production of 143 million gal. accounts for 76% of all the wine consumed in the U.S. Vic's list rates 99 wines from a top of three stars ("the finest"), to zero stars ("highly acceptable"). His eleven three-star choices, all in the $2.50 to $5.50 range at stores:

Champagne: Beaulieu, Brut, '62

White, Semillon variety: Cresta Blanca (Premier), nonvintage

White, Sauvignon Blanc variety: Wente Bros., '63

Red, Cabernet Sauvignon:

Beaulieu (Georges de Latour Private Reserve) '51 and '55 Charles Krug, Vintage Selection, '57 LouisMartini, Private Reserve, '55

Red, Pinot Noir: Charles Krug, '57

Red, Zinfandel: Louis Martini, Private Reserve, '55and '56

Red, Mountain Barbera: Louis Martini, Private Reserve, '56