The Press: As Ye Write, So Shall Ye Eat

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No one cheered louder at Fidel Castro's victory last January than the Chicago Tribune's longtime Latin America correspondent Jules Dubois. Gushed Dubois in a flattering biography of the hero: "A deep reverence for civilian, representative, constitutional government." The dazzled dictator decorated the newsman with a medal engraved, "To our American friend Jules Dubois with gratitude." Last week, eight months and dozens of somewhat less enchanted dispatches later, the love affair was over, in an act of petulance as comical as it was absurd.

The Cubans did not bar Dubois from the country. They just threatened to cut off his food. At the suggestion of a Havana radio commentator, the National Federation of Gastronomic Workers, whose membership includes cooks, waiters, barkeeps and hotel staffs, voted to deny Dubois their services "because of his attitude as spy, divisive agent and sworn enemy of the Cuban revolution." Snapped Dubois: "If they want war, I'll give them war.

Next time I go to Cuba, I'll bring my own sandwiches." Flying down to Havana at week's end, presumably without sandwiches, intrepid Correspondent Dubois ran headfirst into the embargo. At the Habana Hilton, bellhops refused to carry his bags and the waiters refused to serve him. Undismayed, Dubois dropped in at his favor ite restaurant. La Zaragozana, dined on bootleg paella (fish, chicken, rice) served by union members who amiably pretended they did not recognize their guest.