Fashion: Meanwhile, at the Ranch

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The U.S. fashion world has never really got the hang of glamour. Hollywood too often defines it in terms of cleavage, Seventh Avenue too readily as spangles and fringes. When it comes to elegance, the field is still held by Paris. But wardrobes the world over are filled with more than ball gowns and capes, and, increasingly over the past few years, the U.S. has come to dominate the other, everyday end of the closet. As the fall collection previews drew to a close last week in Manhatan, they proved that the American sporty look is undisputedly tops.

Almost everything but the mannequins themselves seemed to have come off a ranch. Ponyskin and calf were favorites. Designer John Weitz cut a pair of pants out of saddle leather, lined a coat of the same fabric with a horse blanket. Adele Simpson put some of her models in outfits with matching boots, either knee-or ankle-height, all high-heeled. No one did anything with an armadillo.

The hit of the week, as much for his hot running commentary as for his clothes, was Oleg Cassini. Natty in a navy blue, nipped-in-waisted suit, Cassini peppered his collection with patter ("I got this British accent when I became successful"), describing his clothes with the tact of an unemployed salesman ("This long dress is for girls with bad knees"). Best of his clothes were the suits and suit ensembles, made mostly of tweed or velvet and worn with matching hats (jockey caps, berets, bowlers and pillboxes) and boots. And even better than the clothes were Cassini's prices, lower this year than ever; some dresses retailed for as little as $50.

The sporty look is better by day than by night, as was proved by Cassini's disappointing evening clothes suggested by the tennis courts. But U.S. fashion clearly has found its place in the sun.