Sleeping with the Barony

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The vikings founded the Scottish stronghold of Skibo in the 9th century, but it is hard to know what they would make of it today. After fighting off the likes of Madonna (who got married in the castle that was built on the original Viking site) and Robbie Williams (who celebrated his birthday there), it is highly unlikely that they would recognize their thousand-year-old home. Where once there were serfs, there are now staff, and a golf course stands on former grazing land. Such is the world of 21st century castle stays.

From Scotland to southern England, castles have always been among Britain's most popular tourist attractions. They're a top lure in Ireland as well. But, bored with chain motels and overpriced bed-and-breakfasts, travelers are finding the idea of sleeping in a historical monument—once the guided tour is over—increasingly attractive. "People are tired of country hotels and fed up with chains. They want a bit more personality," says Roger Masterson, proprietor of accommodation agency Celtic Castles.

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Eager to oblige them, castle owners throughout the U.K. and Ireland have been damp-proofing dungeons and touching up turrets, knowing that history sells—along with billable extras such as spa treatments, banquets and hunting lessons. And it's not just pop stars and other celebrities who can afford to swap blue jeans for the blue-blood life. If you and 11 friends can split the minimum $4,565 charge (about $380 each), then the Irish castle of Lismore, tel: (353-58) 54424, is yours for the night. It comes with a butler, a banqueting hall seating 75, a games room and a vintage collection of Vogue magazines that once belonged to Fred Astaire's sister.

Castle stays are also ideal for old-fashioned romancing. Just think of all those roaring fireplaces and Jacobean four-poster beds. "I have had so many people ask me to choose a castle for them because they want to propose to their partners," says Antony Sherlock of Scotts Castle Holidays. Dalhousie Castle, tel: (44-1875) 820153, near Edinburgh, Scotland, has even trained its resident falcons to deliver engagement rings to unsuspecting partners as they picnic in the gorgeous grounds. Should your beloved's answer be yes, you can exchange vows in the castle's very own candlelit chapel without further ado.

If all this fires your enthusiasm, take a word of advice: the best experiences tend to be at castles still in private hands. Some are even run by descendants of the original owners. About an hour-and-a-half's drive from Glasgow, on the shores of Loch Fyne, is Castle Lachlan, tel: (44-1369) 860669. When you check in, it's often Euan MacLachlan, the clan chief himself, who gives you the room key along with lessons in local lore. If that doesn't beat listlessly watching the History Channel in your motel room, what does?