Beauty and the Feast

One of the first things you will notice in Budapest is that the famous Blue Danube is actually a murky gray. But this will likely be your only disappointment in the Hungarian capital, a vibrant city that is alive with art, culture, history and architecture. With scores of museums, three opera houses and more than a dozen thermal baths, there is much more to Budapest than goulash.

Budapest's eclectic mix of old and new is the result of centuries of political and social upheaval intertwined with periods of great prosperity. Thousands of local landmarks were destroyed during World War II or fell into disrepair during communism but Budapest is slowly returning to its former glory. The challenge for those with limited time is deciding which historic buildings to explore and leave time to sample delicious Hungarian pastries in one of the city's elegant cafés.

The Danube divides the city into two parts,

STREETWISE Best Internet Café: AMI Internet Coffee, Váci utca 40, tel. 267-1644. $1 for 30 mins. Open daily 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. Best Indoor Market: The Market Hall, a large two-story building with scores of stalls selling traditional Hungarian wares, from em-broidered linen to hot paprika and salami. Fövám körút 1-3. Open weekdays 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. (5 p.m. Mondays), Saturdays 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Best Relaxation: The palatial Art Nouveau thermal spa at the Gellért Hotel features therapeutic hot-springs baths, a covered pool with bubbles and sun terraces. Kelenhegyi út 4. Open 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Best Jogging: The vast park on Margit Island in the Danube has scenic paths through lovely gardens. Accessible from both embankments by the Árpád and Margit Bridges. Best Bargains: Shops along the pedestrian Váci utca sell Herend china and turn-of-the-century crystal and silverware for a fraction of the price you'd pay in Western Europe. Best Deal: A $13, two-day Budapest Card buys free use of public transport and 60 museums, restaurants and sightseeing tour discounts. Available at tourist and travel agencies, hotels and the airport.

Buda and Pest, which until 1873 were separate towns. For a glimpse of the past, head to the historic Castle Hill district on the Buda side. Perched above the river is the sprawling Royal Palace, which houses several museums, including the Hungarian National Gallery with its extensive collection of Gothic, Baroque and modern Hungarian art. Above the palace stands the Matthias Church, which was reconstructed in neo-Gothic style at the end of the 19th century over a much simpler original built in 1255. The Fisherman's Bastion, erected near the church, provides sweeping views of the seven bridges spanning the Danube, as well as Pest on the other side — which should be your next destination.

A funicular takes you to Chain Bridge, and a scenic walk along the embankment brings you to the huge parliament building (for guided tours, call 317 7767). Built at the end of the 19th century, the edifice was intended to be a symbol of the city's growing importance, its interior decorated with 41 kg of gold to "impress the eyes of friends and foes alike." Next to Andrassy Avenue is a stylish stretch of elegant 19th century neo-Renaissance and neo-Baroque mansions where wealthy locals, including the composer Franz Liszt, once lived. One building along Andrassy that is worth a stop is the famed and richly ornate State Opera (visits daily at 3 and 4 p.m.), once the preserve of Habs-burg monarchs. At the end of the long avenue is

Heroes Square with its impressive Millennial Monument, an ornate colonnade with statues depicting real and legendary Hungarian heroes. Adjacent to the square, the Fine Arts Museum houses one of Europe's largest collections of Spanish art, in addition to Italian, Flemish and French masters.

Culture satisfied, you can get down to the serious business of pastries. No one should leave the city without sampling at least two specialties: rétes, a strudel filled with apples or black cherries, and dobostorta, a cake generously layered with a custard of egg yolks, sugar, chocolate and vanilla and then covered with caramelized sugar. Fortunately, the city has numerous cafés ranging from simple to palatial. One worth a visit is the Gerbeaud Cukraszda on Vörösmarty Square. Its opulent decor of brocade wall coverings, wood paneling and crystal chandeliers hanging from vaulted ceilings reflects the Old World ambience of imperial Budapest. It may not be as cozy and intimate as some smaller cafés, but its message is clear — after 40 years behind the Iron Curtain, Budapest is slowly rediscovering its heritage as one of Europe's most beautiful cities.