Colonial Cool

Bangsar, at one time Kuala Lumpur's beer-and java-fueled social epicenter, is not quite the buzzing burb it used to be. Blame that on two upstart areas — Changkat Bukit Bintang and Jalan Doraisamy (a.k.a. Asian Heritage Row) — that have become the Malaysian capital's hottest new districts, thanks to a combination of restored colonial architecture and hip nightlife. There's plenty of decadence to boot — Changkat Bukit Bintang doubles up as love-hotel central.

These days, however, signs advertising rooms by the hour are fighting for space with those touting stylish bars, clubs and cosmopolitan restaurants. And the eclectic mix of styles is a surefire draw. [an error occurred while processing this directive] Recently given a welcome face-lift, buildings lining downtown K.L.'s restored heritage rows boast soaring ceilings, wrought-iron balconies and timber balustrades. Some of these 1930s gems — in an Art Deco style adapted for the tropics — also have air wells open to the sky. "People are beginning to realize the past has value," says Lim Huck Chin, a conservation architect. "Going out now has a more human face." See for yourself in one of these heritage hangouts.

Saray: This palate-pleasing Turkish restaurant is decorated with hookahs and Turkey's famed Iznik tiles. The signature "Swooning Imam Beside Eggplant" dish comes with pita bread baked on the premises. An added bonus: in the evenings, erudite owner Fatima Chan holds forth on Ottoman art. tel: (60-3) 2694 9724

Bar SaVanh: Koi carp ponds, opium beds and mammoth buddha heads combine to make Bar SaVanh the slickest place along Jalan Doraisamy for aperitifs. Soak up the booze with tasty tidbits from CoChine, the Indo-Chinese restaurant upstairs. tel: (60-3) 2697 1180

La Bodega: Yearning for tapas and fat Monte Cristo cigars? Then head to this relaxed venue, perhaps the most chilled-out bar in the Changkat Bukit Bintang area. French windows let in a suitably sultry breeze. tel: (60-3) 2142 6368

Sao Nam: One of the most popular restaurants on the Tengkat Tong Shin row, Sao Nam serves up southern Vietnamese cuisine with a contemporary twist. Diners can choose the alfresco area on ground level, or troop to the dining room upstairs, scattered with retro Indo-Chinese furniture. tel: (60-3) 2144 1225