Hock Of The Bay

Mention South Africa's wine regions and many people instinctively think of Stellenbosch, a half-hour drive east of Cape Town. But though it enjoys international celebrity, Stellenbosch produces just 11% of the country's wines — meaning that there are a great deal more wine districts to be discovered. Generating lots of buzz among oenophiles at the moment is Walker Bay, a relatively new wine-growing area a couple of hundred kilometers to the south. At harvest time, this coastal wine ward enjoys milder temperatures, thanks to the sea breezes produced by the Atlantic's cold Benguela current. The result, partisans claim, is enhanced grape aroma and wine quality — [an error occurred while processing this directive] particularly for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Try these cool-climate bottlings:

HAMILTON RUSSELL
One of the first estates to put Walker Bay on the map, Hamilton Russell, tel: (27-28) 312 3595, produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines that beautifully express the area's stony, clay-rich and shale-derived terroir. Citrus notes enhance the Chardonnay's mineralized dryness, while the Pinot Noir is robust and fruity, with hints of coffee.

BOUCHARD FINLAYSON
Tucked away in the coastal Hemel-en-Aarde valley, this winery, tel: (27-28) 312 3515, is known for remarkable blends like its Hannibal label — a marriage of French and Italian fruit, in homage to the great general's march across the Alps. Winemaker Peter Finlayson has composed this wine with 43% Sangiovese, 23% Pinot Noir, 12% Nebbiolo, 11% Syrah, 6% Mourvedre and 5% Barbera grapes. The result is rich and complex, giving a concentrated, dark fruit nose, but a surprisingly gentle finish.

BEAUMONT VINEYARDS
Headquartered at the Compagnes Drift farm — a former Dutch East India Co. outpost — this family-run winery, tel: (27-28) 284 9194, is famous for its spicy Pinotage, but, above all, it excels at dessert wine. Beaumont's aptly named Goutte d'Or, or "Drop of Gold," is a real beauty — a woody ambrosia bursting with honey, apple and apricot notes.