Paradiso Found

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The slurping of homemade pasta, the soft pop of a cork from a bottle of Pinot Grigio and the lilt of Italian conversation are not typically heard off the coast of West Sumatra. But then the coast of West Sumatra is not, as a rule, home to people like Nanni Casalegno. The 62-year-old Italian quit his job and left his home in Turin in 1991, after finding his heaven on earth in Indonesia. In the 15 years since, the former insurance broker and his wife, Federica, have turned 0.9 km of pristine beach on the remote island of Cubadak into Paradiso Village — the best diving resort in the area, and a bucolic getaway for anyone seeking to escape the harried pace of urban life. "On Cubadak, we are all about nature," says Casalegno.

Paradiso's feeling of spectacular isolation is belied by its relative accessibility — a fact that has made it an open secret not only to [an error occurred while processing this directive] repeat visitors from Europe, but regional and domestic tourists, expats, dive fanatics and anyone seeking an alternative to the usual Indonesian destinations of Bali and Lombok. Tabing Airport, located at the West Sumatran capital of Padang, is just two hours away, and can be reached via direct flights from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur or Jakarta. From Tabing, a 90-minute drive and a gentle boat ride take guests to Casalegno's virtually uninhabited isle (the resort's capacity is just 27, and besides these only a handful of fishermen live on Cubadak).

Accommodation comes in the form of 13 two-story huts and one "deluxe suite" (actually a bungalow) — but appointments are basic, with rattan chairs and tables, and mosquito nets draped over the beds. Running water is piped in from the lush mountain range behind. "The mountain water is so clean we actually thought about bottling it," says Casalegno as he gestures up the forested slopes. Nobody seems to mind the rustic conditions — after all, the region has spas and resorts aplenty for those who can't live without dvd players, martini lounges and business centers for a week. And besides, after a day's diving, waterskiing or canoeing, you'll be happily tired and probably unwilling to venture further than Paradiso's tiny waterfront restaurant and its menu of locally caught seafood, prepared Italian or Sumatran style.

Another highlight of a stay on Cubadak is the cost. Nightly rates start at $80 including full board, airport transfers, trekking tours and use of snorkeling equipment, while rental of diving gear is a mere $45 a day. "If you want complete tranquillity, a home-cooked meal and spectacular diving, you will find it here," says Casalegno. Not to mention an abundance of Italian charm. For more information, visit cubadak-paradisovillage.com.