Wales Tales

Enormous bluestone slabs form the walls and roof of Pentre Ifan, a bronze age burial chamber near Newport, South Wales, which has views of the sea in one direction and Carningli (Angel Mountain) in the other. Its builders must have chosen its imposing site[an error occurred while processing this directive] deliberately, say guides Mary Baker and Maria Rocke, co-founders of Archaeotours. Supplying a running commentary and picnic lunch, they take small parties around South Wales' many historic sites by car, van or foot. The duo met as archaeology college students, and aim to prove there's "more to Wales than leeks, hats and choirs," says Baker. They took me on a typical trip that led from ancient tombs like Carreg Samson near Fishguard to medieval Dryslwyn Castle in Camarthenshire.

The Welsh landscape has a spiritual vibe that has survived changes of faith (paganism, Christianity) and rule (Romans, Vikings, Celts). Near Nevern church is a simple cross carved into a cliff by pilgrims — one of the many alleged resting places of the Holy Grail. In its crevices, visitors have stuck flowers, candles and coins. Our last stop: St. Non's Well, a clifftop medieval sacred spring. Offerings are left here, too; a local healer sends clients along for solace; and there's a Roman Catholic retreat house nearby. Whatever your bag, these places are balm for the soul. 4-1348) 837443; archaeotours.co.uk