Man Of The Year: People Are Scared to Death

There are still pop songs, peddlers and even discos, but life is much changed

Clustered around the kebab and hamburger stalls behind Lala (formerly Farah) Park in downtown Tehran, young members of the postrevolutionary jet set are smoking a little hash and swaying to the music of Gougoush and Shoreh, two Western-style pop singers who have been barred from performing in public by the Khomeini regime. Elsewhere in the downtown area, near Mellat Park on a street that bears the nickname "Hippiabad," vendors sell Top Ten tunes on cassettes, blasting out their wares on...