Art: Dressmaker's Diary

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War-torn pages from the diary of the famed Chicago-born Paris dress designer Mainbocher, whose salon is now located on Manhattan's 57th Street, were published last week in the New York Herald Tribune. Excerpts:

Nov. 2, 1942—There are too many women whose thighs cannot stand to be silhouetted and overcaressed by the too straight skirt. My responsibility will be to remember the different problems of our different clients and try to solve them within the framework of L-85.*

Jan. 8, 1943—No heavy perfume of the past for me this season, but I do like the new, deep flounces. They look as different as it seems well mannered to look today. . . . What with all the spring flowers in the collection and all the pruning I have done to let the best dresses blossom, I begin to feel like a gardener.

Jan. 12, 1943—I was heartsick today to hear that my beautiful English woollens went to the bottom of the Atlantic. Shall have to choose other beauties from those that have safely arrived and remember how small my loss is compared to other people's. The same thing happened to my sweaters six months ago. Glad I was not planning on making any sweaters this season.

Jan. 25, 1943—For every ten occasions where short dresses look right there are at least five where only long dresses look absolutely right. Last night, while listening to lovely music at E's, the few women in short dresses looked pure nightclub—too boogey-woogey for the occasion.