Books: New Menus for All Seasonings
Volumes for cooks without time to shop and chop
If music be the food of love, cookbooks are the love of food. At their frequent best, the cook's companions are a fine if rarefied form of literature.
The harmonious balancing of a menu is perhaps more important to Italian cuisine than to any other this side of China. This can be a twice-a-day exercise, since most Italians still favor the three-course midday repast. Italian Cooking in the Grand Tradition (Dial; $24.95), by Jo Bettoja and Anna Maria Cornetto, addresses itself primarily to seasonal family...
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