Food: Sweet Vino High-quality

Budget-conscious oenophiles have long admired Chile's moderately priced, eminently drinkable wines. Despite their relatively unsophisticated technology, Chilean vintners have consistently produced supple reds that are notable for fruit and balance, as well as soft but less distinctive whites. The Wine Spectator, the leading American journal of wines and spirits, last year gave an impressive 88 (on a scale of 100) and a best-buy rating to Vina Los Vascos' 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon, which sells in the U.S. for a mere $5. Other bargain-priced Chilean wines, including Concha y Toro and St. Morillon, have also scored well in U.S. tastings.

With such gung-ho...