Food: When Women Man the Stockpots

(3 of 3)

Judging by the food one samples around the U.S., there is little difference in the performance of male and female chefs discernible to the eye or palate. Badly conceived culinary high-wire acts are as unappetizing when practiced by men as by women, as are slowness, uneven pacing of courses and sloppy presentation. "I hate this whole question," says Los Angeles' Milliken, "because it emphasizes differences, and women can only really succeed if there are none."

But some still do discern shadings of difference. "I find men tend to be more classically trained and are less flexible about trying new techniques," says San Francisco's Goldstein. "Women are less academic in their approach and so are more flexible." Observes Evanston's Reis: "Men are more aggressive about putting forward their ideas and suggestions. Women tend to be shy about speaking up." Shen feels that women let their personal problems interfere with their work and are therefore not as useful to her. "Men seem better able to keep their private lives separate."

Chefs and educators all seem to agree that women have more patience with minute detail, especially in pastry work, a startling finding when one considers that the two most inspired pastry chefs in the U.S. are Albert Kumin and Dieter Schorner, both obviously men with patience enough to produce cakes that are intricate works of art. But perhaps their female counterparts will emerge as more women wield whisks and pastry tubes. There are already two in New York City who show considerable promise: Joan Winters, whose confections reflect an Italian-American down-home blend at the Duane Park Cafe; and Susan Lantizus, who does stylish Italian innovations at San Domenico.

Whatever the merits of the male-female debate, women chefs seem to have no difficulty handling male crews. Waters puts it quite crisply. "I can do more than they can," she says. "I can fire them." Even so, despite the years of sex discrimination, these women seem to forgive if not totally forget. "I love men so much," says Milliken. "I forgive them their attitudes toward women. It's only what their grandmothers and mothers brought them up to believe."

It is inevitable and encouraging that women have joined the list of culinary creators. But it also raises questions: Who will be the keepers of the flame? Or will our beloved traditional dishes, ignored by creative chefs, simply disappear?