Food: Palate Polls

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Close readers of the New York surveys observe that they invariably list Vinnie's Pizza, a nondescript takeout joint near the Zagats' Upper West Side apartment. But Zagat denies the guides reflect a personal taste, noting that his reviewers rate one posh Manhattan bistro higher than he does. "I've never liked La Cote Basque," Zagat says, "but there are 500 of them and only two of us."

A lot more than 500, as it happens. By contributing to the 1989 New York City survey, about 3,500 serious eaters got free copies of the guide, as well as anonymous ego trips. That guide sold in excess of 200,000 copies and was bought in bulk by some 300 corporations to hand out to favored customers. Over the years, the surveys have earned "several millions," admits Zagat, whose possible future projects include a theater survey, a restaurant guide for kids, a telephone-access national data bank of restaurant information. And what about, um, Paris? "We may do other places," he says, "but the no word is for France." Breathe easy, Michelin, at least your home turf is safe.