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THE MALL, THE MERRIER

Roseanne Barr, domestic goddess, pulled off the interstate not long ago into a huge swath of suburbia 40 miles east of Los Angeles. She was heading for California's top tourist attraction: not Disneyland, not the nearby stock-car track, but an expanse of concrete and steel splayed across 2 million sq. ft. of desert called Ontario Mills. It's the latest fashion in malls, boasting two tyrannosaurian movieplexes totaling 54 screens, as well as glitzy entertainment and retail hot spots like Off Rodeo Drive that sell designer duds at hoi polloi prices. Roseanne sat down for a bite in celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck's...

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