Eating Smart

The conventional wisdom about what's good for you and what's bad has changed over the years. Here's what the experts now say:

BUTTER OR MARGARINE?

WHAT WE USED TO THINK Butter packs a heart attack in every teaspoon. Switch to margarine

WHAT DOCTORS SAY NOW Turning vegetable oil into sticks of margarine makes it just as bad

WHAT TO DO Go for margarine in a tub or squeeze bottle. Or switch to a butter substitute, such as Benecol that can boost good cholesterol

THE SCORE

Benecol [3 hearts] Tub Margarine [2 hearts] Butter [1 heart] Stick Margarine [1 heart]

OTHER DAIRY

Butter is bad because it's made from saturated-fat-laden cream. But other milk-based products can also threaten the heart. Unless they're labeled low fat or nonfat, stay away from desserts and other foods that come from milk

SKIM MILK [4 hearts] LOW-FAT MILK [3 hearts] FROZEN YOGURT [2 hearts] WHOLE MILK [1 heart] ICE CREAM [1 black heart]

OFF THE FORBIDDEN LIST

WHAT WE USED TO THINK Eggs are so full of cholesterol they might as well be poison. Stay away

WHAT DOCTORS SAY NOW Cholesterol in food doesn't necessarily raise blood-cholesterol levels

WHAT TO DO If you've got cholesterol problems, avoid eggs. If not, they are fine in moderation

THE SCORE [2 hearts]

PASS THE SALT

WHAT WE USED TO THINK It will send your blood pressure sky high. Always choose low-sodium foods, and don't touch the shaker

WHAT DOCTORS SAY NOW It ain't necessarily so, unless you're already prone to high blood pressure

WHAT TO DO A low-sodium diet won't hurt and may help. But don't be paranoid about pretzels

THE SCORE [2 hearts]

RED WINE

WHAT WE USED TO THINK Alcohol is bad for you, no exceptions

WHAT DOCTORS SAY NOW A substance called resveratrol, found in grape skins, may reduce levels of bad cholesterol

WHAT TO DO Alcohol in excess is still bad for you but a glass of wine with dinner is probably fine for nonalcoholics

THE SCORE [2 hearts]

SALMON OR SHRIMP?

WHAT WE USED TO THINK Shrimp is relatively high in cholesterol, so salmon is healthier

WHAT DOCTORS SAY NOW Cholesterol is a red herring. But salmon is high in omega-3 fatty acids, which may actually protect against heart disease

WHAT TO DO Shrimp is O.K. for most people, but salmon is among the best nonvegetarian foods on the market

THE SCORE

Salmon [4 hearts] Shrimp [2 hearts]

OTHER FISH

Salmon has omega-3 acids, and so do plenty of other fish. But not all sea and lake dwellers are equally blessed. A partial rundown:

MACKEREL [3 hearts] AMERICAN EEL [2 hearts] TUNA [2 hearts] ATLANTIC HERRING [2 hearts] NORWEGIAN SARDINES [2 hearts] RAINBOW TROUT [2 hearts] LAKE WHITEFISH [1 heart]

MEAT VS. POULTRY

WHAT WE USED TO THINK Red meat is higher in cholesterol than chicken, so stick with the birds

WHAT DOCTORS SAY NOW Saturated fat is the real problem. Chicken is still better, especially if you avoid fatty skin and dark meat