Though winemaking began as early as 2200 B.C. in Greece, most Americans associate the country with retsina, a traditional, pine-resin-flavored wine. Now U.S. consumers are embracing a wider range of oinos. Sales of Greek brands were up 18% last year--and those going for the Olympics may hasten the trend. The wines are made from indigenous grapes unfamiliar to most Americans. Some to try: Moschofilero yields aromatic whites like Boutari's Moschofilero. Agiorgitiko is the grape in the herbaceous 14-18h Rose (the name refers to the number of hours the fresh grape juice remains in contact with the skins in fermentation). And the Xinomavro grape makes for velvety reds.