The New Androgyny

Jeans, whether ripped, dark, white or low slung, were the mainstay at both the Dolce & Gabbana and D&G Men's shows, and, according to Michael Macko, head buyer for menswear at Saks Fifth Avenue, expensive jeans are the foundation for the style-conscious man's wardrobe. Macko says sales of casual designer clothing are up among young men who, unlike their elders, "grew up without the stigma that only gay men went shopping by themselves or with other men." For this new generation, Macko says, "it all starts with a premium denim, whether it's Levi's Premium or Seven; a great shoe, maybe Tod's; then a great shirt; then a blazer. We're doing a huge business in blazers."

Also doing well with blazers is Thom Browne, 38, the American who launched his label of hand-made suits nearly three years ago. His custom-designed creations are known for their slim trousers and short, fitted jackets, which, he says, look sharp and young. Browne, who wears a suit every day, whatever the weather or occasion, describes his typical client as "the guy who was wearing khakis and polo shirts the past couple years but who understands the quality of hand-made clothing and is willing to spend extra money to get it." (His suits usually start at $3,000.)

Browne is quick to point out that his customers are not foppish but confident and discerning. He says his suits evoke such effortlessly masculine figures as Steve McQueen and John F. Kennedy. "It's so much more attractive when you see some guy who's not screaming a trend but has a timeless piece of clothing that fits well," he says. It's a similar distinction made by Forte about buyers of Dolce & Gabbana, which she defines as a luxury brand rather than a designer label.

Whatever the health of the economy, it seems unlikely that outside certain financial companies and law firms, the office dress code will ever snap back to the formality it had before the 1990s. Even so, high-end retailers are hopeful that a certain population of men will continue to shop like women. --By Michele Orecklin