Hold the Pickles, Please

The result, an antismut ordinance, drew an instant lawsuit from the Climax and the other club, the Beehive. The Beehive later agreed to remove the word nude from its signs and scale back its operation. But Fratangelo resisted, arguing, among other things, that nudity is a protected form of free expression. The legal wrangling continues with no end in sight. "The drive-through is his way of thumbing his nose at us," Salvatore says.

"We don't degrade women; we admire them," says the Hugh Hefner of western Pennsylvania, wearing a custard-colored blazer and smiling devilishly as three drooling future Presidents do the drive-through in a pickup truck. Barbie, a dancer, says she was initially apprehensive about doing windows, but it grew on her. "We even get women and couples coming through. And a lot of golfers."

P.T. Barnum lives. Asked about his inspiration, Fratangelo says it was "just a brainstorming session one day. You think I'll be TIME's Man of the Year?"