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Table of Contents: December 15, 2003
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In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 162 No. 23

COVER
Life Behind Enemy Lines (Cover Story)
TIME goes behind the lines with Saddam loyalists, religious fanatics and foreign fighters


ASIA
Taking It to the Brink
Seeking to strengthen his re-election bid, President Chen hints at independence—enraging China and causing headaches for the U.S.


BUSINESS
The Console Wars: Game On
Once synonymous with video-game success, Nintendo has hit on hard times—and its only salvation may be to stop making game consoles


GLOBAL ADVISER
Gifts That Stand Out in a Crowd (TIME Global Adviser | Style Watch)
Money no object? What to buy for the special someone in your life

Magical Christmas Markets (TIME Global Adviser | Diversions)
Get into the holiday spirit with some retail therapy in traditional surroundings

The Price of Pine (TIME Global Adviser | The Cost-Of-Living-It-Up Index)
Spruce up the living room with the most festive of all vegetation ... a Christmas tree

A Visit to Santa's Town (TIME Global Adviser | TIME Traveler)
Lapland offers sleigh rides, tours of Mr. Claus' home and a hotel made from ice

Sweet treats in the heart of Spain (TIME Global Adviser | Next Time You're In... Toledo)
Nun-made marzipan heads the list of attractions that make this former capital your one-stop Christmas shop

Customized Holidays (TIME Global Adviser | Local Fare)
Czechs like it fishy, but Europe's Yuletide traditions are wide ranging

Search inside this issue:

TECHNOLOGY
China's Secret Plague (Science | TIME in Depth)
TIME tracks renowned researcher Dr. David Ho as he works to head off China's growing AIDS epidemic


ARTS
The Lust of Exploration (Books)
In Dream Jungle, Jessica Hagedorn reveals that a nation is built as much on its fantasies as realities

Family Phantoms (Books)
Amy Tan explores family history and the mystery of memory in The Opposite of Fate


NOTEBOOK
Upping the Heat
Indonesia turns its attention to a nascent separatist movement in resource-rich Papua

Roh's Woes Continue
As legislators overturn a controversial veto, South Korea's President is in the fight of his life

Milestones
Events of the Week

Verbatim
Quotes of the Week

Letters
The Private Jessica Lynch


Quotes of the Day »

Get & Share
MICHAEL BLOOMBERG, New York City mayor, criticizing two EMTs accused of ignoring a pregnant woman who collapsed in a coffee shop where they were taking a break; the woman and her baby later died