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In this issue
Edition: Europe
Vol. 164, No. 8

COVER
Secret Capitals (Cover | Europe's Secret Capitals)
TIME takes a guided tour of Europe's unsung treasures

From Coal to Culture (Newcastle | Urban renewal)
This old mining town is becoming a gleaming cultural center

Little Big Town (Grenoble | Nanotechnology)
The science of making very, very small things is a major business for this French alpine city

Neptune's Gift (Bergen | Aquaculture)
Norway's second city uses cutting-edge science to harvest its waters

Welcome To Wellville (Bad Worishofen | Old And New Age Therapy)
The German home of hydrotherapy has been luring and curing aches and ailments for 150 years

An Old Pearl Gets A New Shine (Dubrovnik | The Riviera, Circa 1960)
Croatia's jewel on the Adriatic is becoming Europe's trendiest tourist destination.

A Scene Gets Heard (Glasgow | Rock Of The North)
This Scottish city's rock bands are riding high in the charts and at the festivals.

The Last Best Place In Europe? (Nantes | Quality Of Life)
The French — who know about these things — love its lifestyle

Eastward Bound and Trading Up (Trieste | Gateway To The New Europe)
The aroma of sea, espresso — and economic opportunity pervades the air over this bustling trade city

Northern Lights (Tallinn | The Nightlife)
Once a remote outpost at the edge of the Soviet Union, the Estonian capital is now at the heart of Europe's weekend club scene

Helping a Nation Keep the Faith (Suzdal | Historic Preservation)
This tiny northeastern town is easy on the eye and good for the soul

When I'm 64 (Altea | Retirement Heaven)
Medieval charms and modern amenities draw the elderly to a Spanish town

Patron Saints (Basel | Contemporary Art)
It hosts the world's most important arts fair, has 30 superb museums within 37 sq km, and spends its tax money on Picassos

Saving the Planet Starts at Home (Bristol | Green Activism And Filmmaking)
Natural-history moviemaking, recycling, organic food and alternative energy

The World At Its Feet (Le Marche | Shoemaking)
If you're wearing a pair of luxury shoes, chances are they were handcrafted in these Italian hills


BUSINESS
Inside the Yukos Endgame (Business | Russia)
With a Putin aide in charge, Russia's state-owned oil firm is poised to snap up pieces of Yukos


OLYMPICS
Making A Splash (Athens 2004)
A surprise showing for Africa in the pool

It Takes a Little Teamwork (Athens 2004 | Scholarships)
An Olympic scholarship program helped Abdou Alassane Dji Bo chase his dreams

Living Up To Their Promise (Athens 2004 | Scholarship)

The Comeback Kid
Russia's Svetlana Khorkina loses Gymnastics gold to American Carly Patterson

Winning on the Wild Water (Athens 2004)

It's All About Beating The Girl Next Door (Athens 2004 | Fencing)


NOTEBOOK
A Strategic Divorce? (Notebook | Europe)
America pulls more of its troops out of Europe

Bizwatch

Worldwatch

Letters

Search inside this issue:

ARTS
On the Road to Greatness (Arts | Cinema)
The Motorcycle Diaries is a tender tribute to Che Guevara's youth, not his myth

Nice Witch of the North (Arts | Comedy)
Comedienne Shabana Rehman's Pakistani roots and Norwegian lifestyle make a provocative comic brew


GLOBAL ADVISER
Aloft In The Himalayas (Global Adviser | Time Traveler)
The world's mightiest mountain range is peak viewing

Fusion Power (Global Adviser | Amuse-Bouche)
An ancient cuisine sets out to curry favour with London's restaurant crowd

Andalusian Hideaway (Global Adviser | Check In)
Trasierra is an all-season retreat with home comforts

The Myth of Megapixels (Global Adviser | Tech Watch)
Bigger does not necessarily mean better in the world of digital photography

Liposuction's Limits (Global Adviser | Your Health)
Surgery makes you slimmer, but it may not make you any healthier. Here's why


Quotes of the Day »

Get & Share
ROBB LEVIN, resident of Fairfax, Virginia, on the $15,000 lawsuit settlement made against Tareq and Michaele Salahi, the White House gate crashers, who are also involved in at least 15 other civil suits