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In this issue
Edition: South Pacific
No. 33

COVER
Life In Hell: A Baghdad Diary
In more than 20 trips to the ravaged city, TIME's Aparisim Ghosh has navigated countless perils. His extraordinary story offers a rare insight into the daily life of Iraqi citizens


ASIA
The Birth and Rebirth of Shenzhen
Once the sweatshop of the world, Shenzhen — like China as a whole — must reinvent itself for a new era


WORLD
How Much Risk Will We Take? (Cover Story)
In the aftermath of last week's foiled terrorist plot, air travel suddenly seems more dangerous than ever

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NOTEBOOK
A Small Step for Robotkind
A Japanese quadraplegic climbs one of Europe's highest mountains, with a little help from a friend and his robotic exoskeleton

India's Storm in a Cola Cup
Environmentalists claim the Indian government isn't doing enough to regulate the soft-drink industry—and Coke and Pepsi come under attack over pesticides


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HUGO CHAVEZ, President of Venezuela, on his plan to join a team of scientists on a cloud-seeding flight amid a severe drought