Introduction
From Kingston to Cape Town, musicians are rocking old traditions
Postcard From Haiti
Wyclef Jean on the music scene of his native land
Hidden Havana
The heart of hip-hop may be in Cuba Plus:Scenes from the Cuban underground
Music Goes Global From Kingston to Cape Town, from New Delhi to New York,
musicians are rocking old traditions. Your world will
never be the same BY CHRISTOPHER JOHN FARLEY
Independence Day is coming. It's early evening in Kingston, the
capital of Jamaica, and the slumbering hills that surround the
city are covered in warm blankets of shadows. It has been a
season of heatthe sugarcane crop is shriveling for lack of
rain, the streets are dusty and dry, and tensions are simmering.
Last month there were riots as citizens clashed with police.
Last night, at a Montego Bay concert, there was gunfire, a
stampede, injuries.
But Independence Day is coming, the 39th anniversary of Jamaica's
emergence from the control of Britain. Outside club Asylum, one
of the city's most popular night spots, young Jamaicansin their
teens, 20s and 30shave begun to gather. Inside, things are slow
as the drone of foreign actsBritney Spears, Whitney Houston, 'N
Syncechoes across the empty dance floor. But out on the streets,
kids are making their own scene, to their own sounds. It is a
scene like those that nowadays are taking place in cities all
over the planetin Tokyo, in Cape Town, in Reykjavik. In such
ways, in such places, a fresh sound in global music is being
born. It's the beating heart of a new world.
On the street outside club Asylum, ragga (a rap-influenced form
of reggae) booms out of parked cars. Young Jamaican men with
white scarves tied around their heads vibrate to the music,
thrusting their hips at passing Suzuki Samurais. The youths have
now begun to slow up traffic, and police close in on them like
parentheses. Is a confrontation brewing? One young reveler
reaches into his car and turns up his stereo. The voice of
Elephant Man, the latest local ragga star, blares out, heavy
with attitude and thick with patois: "Badman nah run from police
inna shootout/Whole crew a government see dem pon di
lookout..." The youth smiles at the cops and keeps dancing.
Bob Marley, the great Jamaican Reggae star, once posed the
question "Won't you help me sing these songs of freedom?" Music
can be a tool: for relaxation, for stimulation, for
communicationand for revolution. In fact, it is often a rhythm
of resistance: against parents, against police, against power.
The U.S., in this one-superpower age, has perhaps never been so
dominanteconomically, militarily, culturally. That strength
attracts immigrants, who bring with them new forms of music. And
that strength also inspires competition, as musicians and
performers in other countries, mindful of the American hegemony,
assert their national identities and culture and create new
musical genres they can call their own: garage in Britain,
kwaito in South Africa, ever evolving forms of reggae in
Jamaica. America may be the world's policeman, but citizens of
the worldand the New Americans who have come herehave turned
up their car stereos and are dancing like never before.
The quest for change has often been a family affair: many top
global-music performers, including Nigeria's Femi Kuti (son of
Fela), Jamaica's Ziggy Marley (son of Bob) and Brazil's Max de
Castro (son of Wilson Simonal), are the children of musical
pioneers. Now, around the world, old traditions are being
revived, remolded and returned to prominence by a new generation
and new technology. In Tijuana, Mexico, young DJs are crossing
traditional norteno (a polka-like music) with
not-at-all-traditional techno to create a fresh genre, Nortec.
In Bogota, Colombia, the rock duo Aterciopelados is mixing
old-time accordion-driven vallenato with clubland drum-'n'-bass
beats. In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, the great chanteuse Marisa
Monte is smoothly blending samba and art-pop.
Centuries of customs have changed in just decades. In the 1940s
and '50s, radio brought the music of the outside world to much of
Africa for the first time. In the 1970s, audiocassettes made it
possible for Third World musicians to disseminate their own music
quickly, cheaply and profitably. Acts like the Congo's Papa Wemba
became continent-wide superstars.
In the 21st century, the Internet has opened up the world to
itself. In the distant pastsay, three years agoglobal-music
fans had to wait for a record label to decide whether to
distribute a foreign artist in their country. South African diva
Brenda Fassie's last three CDs weren't picked up by American
distributors, despite the fact that they were best sellers in
Africa. Today, Internet file-sharing services allow users to
listen to whatever they want, anywhere they choose, anytime they
please. (And Fassie's Stateside appeal is recognized by some:
Banana Republic plays her song Vuli Ndlela in its stores.)
Conflicted about the ethics of unauthorized file sharing? Online
music storeswhich tend to have wider and more eclectic
inventories than their bricks-and-mortar counterpartsallow
fans to buy hard-to-find CDs (like, say, the excellent
compilation Zimbabwe Frontline 3: Roots Rock Guitar Party)
quickly and conveniently, albeit sometimes expensively.
The we-are-the-world maxim is this: music is the universal
language. For the mainstream record industry in the U.S.,
however, music in languages other than English often wasn't
considered universal; it was controversial.
Richie Valens hit it big with La Bamba in 1959. The music
industry didn't wholeheartedly embrace another Latin rocker
until Santana's autumnal success in 1999.
Now tongues are coming untied. Wyclef Jean's platinum hip-hop
CDs, The Carnival and The Ecleftic, mixed English and Haitian
Creole. Christina Aguilera, who launched her career singing
English-language teen pop, recorded a CD entirely in Spanish
last year. Increasingly, world-beaters are collaborating and
connecting with one another. Colombian rocker Shakira's new CD
was executive- produced by Cuban-American Emilio Estefan Jr. and
draws from Argentine tango.
The new global music doesn't exclude America. After all,
America's biggest rock star, Dave Matthews, is a white African;
Japan's biggest pop star, Utada Hikaru, hails from Manhattan. The
old-school term world music is a joke, a wedge, a way of
separating English-language performers from the rest of the
planet. But there has always been crossover. In 1958 Dean Martin
scored a hit with the Italian tune Volare; in 1967 Frank Sinatra
recorded an album of songs by Brazilian composer Antonio Carlos
(Tom) Jobim. Elvis Presley's Can't Help Falling in Love is based
on the 18th century French ballad Plaisir d'amour. Such music
became world music only when darker-skinned folks sang it.
Pop music and global music aren't mutually exclusive categories.
In the '80s Paul Simon, David Byrne and Peter Gabriel blended
world beats. More recently, Sting scored a hit with Algerian rai
star Cheb Mami, Lauryn Hill covered Bob Marley on MTV Unplugged,
and Britney Spears has made a habit of working with Swedish
songwriter Max Martin. Madonna, on her latest tour, drew from so
many cultures for sonic and sartorial inspiration, it was a
surprise Kofi Annan didn't join her for an encore.
Musicians performing in different languages often strike similar
chords. Listen to the intense, undulant wail of Assane Ndiaye on
the song Nguisstal, a track on Streets of Dakar: Generation Boul
Fale, a compilation of young Senegalese acts. Boul fale is a
Wolof phrase that means, loosely, "Never mind." The American punk
group Nirvana's seminal album of teen angst was also titled
Nevermind. Alienation, it seems, is a nation without borders.
Lyrics are important, but they don't have to matter. Even when
Bob Dylan, arguably America's finest lyricist, mumbles through a
number, the poetry of his words comes out in the phrasing. "How
does it feel?" Dylan famously asked on Like a Rolling Stone. We
may not have known exactly what he meant, but we knew how it
felt. Today's musicians have taken that lesson to heart. Thom
Yorke of the British band Radiohead wrote some songs for his
album Kid A by cutting up lyric sheets and pulling lines out of a
top hat. The Icelandic band Sigur Ros sings some songs in a
made-up tongue it calls Hopelandic.
Many of today's global musicians move back and forth from their
native tongues to English, on the same album, sometimes on the
same song. There's a sense that geography doesn't have to equal
destiny. The Tokyo-based rock trio the Brilliant Green's latest
CD is almost entirely in Japanese. It was recorded in Tokyo. The
CD's title? Los Angeles.
Listening to music in an unfamiliar tongue can be more thrilling
than listening to a song whose lyrics are instantly intelligible.
Because if you can connect with another person beyond lyrics,
beyond language, then you have engaged in a kind of telepathy.
You have managed to escape the mundane realm of ordinary
communication and entered a place where souls communicate
directly. It's cooler than instant messaging. Cherif Mbaw, 33, is
a Senegalese singer-guitarist living in Paris; the songs on his
brilliant CD Kham Kham are in his native Wolof. But when Mbaw,
with his beatific tenor, soars into a passage of staccato vocals
and jittery guitar work on Saay Saay, you know exactly what he
means even if you don't know what he's saying. His intent is in
his inflection; his eloquence is in his emotion. Boundaries fall
away.
So, Independence Day is coming. It's late evening on Knutsford
Boulevard in Kingston. The young Jamaicans who were outside club
Asylum are safely inside. The riots, the tensionall forgotten,
and perhaps they were overplayed by the press from the start.
Jamaican tunes blast from the speakers; the dance floor is
packed. One of the most popular ragga songs this season is Shake
Yuh Bam Bam by the group T.O.K. The song samples Ricky Martin's
hit Shake Your Bom-Bom but adds ragga's roughness. When Bam Bam
comes on, the crowd goes wild.
Is a sense of cultural uniqueness lost in the global-pop blender?
If they are grooving to Ricky in Kingston, is there anywhere to
hide? The first moments of the 21st century have been haunted by
the specter of globalization, of a star-spangled world in which a
parade of powerful lettersthe U.N., the WTO, the IMFhammers the
diversity of the planet into homogenized goop. But Aterciopelados
insisted on recording its latest CD in its hometown of Bogota.
And Max de Castro projects blown-up images of old Brazilian LPs
at some of his concerts to remind audiences of his country's
heritage. Many new global artists have the curiosity to wander
the earth with their music and the integrity to stay connected to
their homelands. This is the help Marley asked for. These are
freedom songs.
It's getting hot in club Asylum, but the dancers just keep on
going. Outside, the cops are putting up barricades for
tomorrow's celebrations. Inside, the party has already begun. At
this club and ones like it around the worldin Sao Paulo, in
Dakar, in Havana, in New York CityIndependence Day is every
night.