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TIME PACIFIC
August 20-27, 2001 | NO. 33


By STEVE WATERSON

The stories of the south pacific are many, exotic and romantic. From the mermaids and monsters of ancient seafarers, through the adventure novels of Ballantyne and Stevenson to the wry sophistication of Somerset Maugham, storytellers have relished the mythical and mystical connection with the sea that sounds some atavistic chord in all of us. For the ocean exerts a tidal pull on the imagination. Mankind has always been vulnerable to its siren song, seduced from the safety of land to navigate frail vessels beyond an unknown horizon. Six thousand years ago, the first voyagers set out from Southeast Asia into the most forbidding ocean of all. Greater than the other seas combined, larger than the earth's land area, the Pacific guards its mysteries against the probing of science and exploration: in places its floor lies as distant from its surface as the airliners that fly overhead. And dotted throughout this vastness, tiny islands have nourished the descendants of those pioneers.

In recent years, however, much of the romance has been leached from the region. Not even the mighty Pacific's breadth has proved a barrier to the ills of Western civilization. The islands have been touched cruelly by wars born of parochial disputes half a world away; mushroom clouds have darkened the skies over warriors who still fight with wooden clubs; climate change spirits away their shores. Greed, masquerading as commerce, has robbed islanders of their trees, gouged out their minerals, emptied their formerly teeming seas of fish. And as contact with the outside world has grown, foreign foods have brought health problems; alien systems of government have spawned corruption and coups; and the false promise of luxury has triggered new migrations which decimate native populations and fuel racial tension.

More than 200 years ago the French encyclopedist Denis Diderot alerted the Pacific islanders to the perils of European civilization: "One day, under their rule," he warned, "you will be almost as unhappy as they are." There are challenges today more daunting than any he foresaw; dangers, indeed, worse than any conceived by nature. But like the ocean itself, the peoples of the Pacific have a fluid adaptability. Their customs and traditions flow around man-made obstacles; they ride the tides of fortune with agility. Travel with them a little way, and listen to their tales. n
 

Copyright © 2001 Time Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.
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More Stories
August 20-27, 2001 | No. 33

COVER STORY
The New Pacific
Setting off to explore the islands, Time found an ocean of stories. Faced with the challenges of the global village, some peoples are prospering, easily melding old ways with new; others struggle to cling to tradition in a cyclone of change

TO OUR READERS...
TRAVELERS ADVISORY...

PACIFIC BEAT: Bougainville talks; West Papua in coventry...

SPECIAL: Pacific Journey
CLIMATE: Not Waving, Drowning... Kiribati and Tuvalu fear being erased by rising seas
MIGRATION: Outgoing Tide... Small nations are losing their best and brightest people
LAND RIGHTS: At Loggerheads... Landowners and opportunists vie for Fiji's mahogany wealth
MEDIA: Telling It Like It Is... Nervous governments make life tough for local newsmen
GOVERNMENT: The Falling-to-Pieces Process... The Solomon Islands is riven by corruption and lawlessness
DRUGS: Brewing Trouble... As drinking rules lose their grip, kava is becoming a social bane
RELIGION: Shopping for Jesus... In Samoa, new brands of Christianity are giving old ones a jolt
BUSINESS: Blooming Economy... Fijian housewives find growth potential in their backyards
WOMEN: No Room to Move... In Vanuatu, women's freedom often sits uneasily with tradition
SCIENCE: Gene Blues... Tongans debate whether to give researchers access to their dna
MEDICINE: Sweet and Deadly... Long-isolated islanders are vulnerable to diet-related diseases
THE ARTS: Bringing Samoa to Book... Sia Figiel writes about her homeland with novel candor
ENVIROMENT: Nowhere to Throw... Places like the Cook Islands have little room for waste
FISHING: Conserving the Catch... Fearful for the sea's health, Samoans apply their own First Aid
THE ARTS: Tapa Recording... Bark cloth documents island peoples' lives and legends

THE ARTS: Islamic art; Pee-wee's back...