It was a happy inspiration for Greenpeace to take its bus not just to port cities but inland too. In Howard County, Mo., the ocean activists meet Roger Allison and Rhonda Perry, family hog farmers. They complain that Missouri and its small farms are being lied to, undersold and fouled with reeking air and polluted water by huge, corporate-owned, factory-style hog operations. Dorry responds with the parallel case against factory fishing. "It's the same story here!" she says. "You guys are trying to make a living. The factories are making a killing."

Across from the farmers' market in St. Louis, it has been a slow day. A couple of dozen signatures, maybe a mind or two opened. Or closed. The Greenpeacers take down their banners saying STOP FACTORY FARMS! and BAN FACTORY TRAWLERS! The bus eases away from the curb and rumbles toward Lexington, Ky.

Weeks later, home in Gloucester, Dorry hears bad news. Under attack by factory-ship interests, the Stevens bill has been weakened. Of the 45 big ships now operating, only the least efficient nine would be bought out of service, partially at taxpayer expense. "What this does," Dorry says, "is institutionalize factory fishing, not ban it. What it doesn't do is deal with overfishing." She is silent for a moment. Then: "No. No, the bus tour wasn't wasted. At least more people know there's a problem. The fight is in Congress now. It's winnable. We're going after them."