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May 5, 2000
DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI
The Pulse of America


BY MARK COATNEY

So they're all Beavers, every last one of them. Thirteen to a barge, and angle-parked in neat rows on what is billed as the only floating RV campground in the world.


DIANA WALKER FOR TIME
They're all "Beavers": RV's set sail up the Mississippi.

The owners call themselves Beavers too, because they drive Beaver RV's made in Bend, Ore., enormous 40-footers with side expansion units that make them bigger than your average two-bedroom apartment (and a whole lot better equipped). They start at an entirely reasonable $300,000 per and can run you much higher than that; the big rig on the boat is a million-dollar bus that could very well be doing duty on the Shania Twain tour.

And so when I see the whole mess of them parked very close to the U.S.S. Kidd on the Baton Rouge waterfront — right by where we've tied up for the night — I have to know more. The barge they're traveling on is the only one of its kind in the U.S. It's run by RV River Charters, which was born of the consolidation of the barge industry 10 years ago. It was then that Ray Gaines and Eddie Conrad of Compass Marine decided to tap into the growing RV boom. Their idea: Drive the monster motor homes onto three of the flat-topped barges the company had sitting around and push the whole thing up the river from New Orleans to St. Louis. That first trip sold out, and it's been smooth sailing from there, to the point that the company is booked solid through 2002, and will for the first time next summer begin running trips year-round (they used to take the hot months of July and August off).

Their first setup was little more than a series of floating slabs; passengers had to supply their own water, electricity and sewage systems. The current models are much nicer, with, as they say in the RV business, full hookups. This year's innovation has been the Party Barge, a building set on the middle barge of the three that is a sort of senior citizen Porky's where the campers can share meals and hang out.

The question that comes up — well, OK, one of the questions — when you watch a 200-foot barge with campers sitting on top slide slowly up the river is, why do this? Why, after spending all that money on a fabulously appointed home that can also do 85 mph in the straightaway, would you then spring for $2,300 more to park it on a concrete slab to sail up the Mississippi?

Call it the Campfire Syndrome. Though it may seem like they're lonely wanderers of the open road, RV-ers are actually quite a social bunch. Even on dry land, they hold rallies where they will stay for a week or more parked in the same place.

On this morning, everyone's dragging a bit because the group was out late dancing (or watching dancing) at New Lots, La., and they had to get up early for a trip to Baton Rouge. Creative World, a tour group, is in charge of booking the social calendar for the cruise, and they have the campers doing something different every day.

In the end, though, they like to return to something familiar. Charlotte Chase and her husband have been on the road for six months and are starting to miss Lodi, Calif., where they have 18 acres of grapes. "I want to see Georgia," she says, "and then go home for a while."

TOMORROW'S DISPATCH — From Darrow, La., to New Orleans, La.

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