This
past April, about a dozen of us from TIME cruised the Mississippi
River from Hannibal, MO, home of Mark Twain, to New Orleans, home
to our managing editor, Walter Isaacson. What we found was beautiful,
unexpected and inspiring. Click on the towns in the map to the left
to see a daily dairy from that trip; browse through galleries to
your right of some very nice photos, and read the stories we brought
back, listed below. There's many a river that waters this land,
but none like this one.

OPENER:
LIFE ALONG THE RIVER
A land unto itself, where progress is a back road
THE
HISTORY
BRINGING
BACK MAIN STREET
Iowa residents find creative ways to revive their downtowns
EVOLUTION OF A CREATIONIST
A teacher finds fault with Darwin
MORMONS
A holy temple threatens Nauvoo, Illinois
IMMORTALITY
In St. Louis, a cemetery offers life on film
THE
RIVER
HOW
FAST SHOULD IT FLOW?
A battle over river traffic
A NEW HUCK FINN
One 25-year-old's passion for the river
THE SINKING CITY
Can New Orleans be kept afloat?
EDUCATION
TEACHING
"HUCK FINN"
St.
Louis teacher Minnie Phillips on how Twain's novel is not so much
about race as it is about freedom
NO
MORE WHITE FLIGHT
How a school district won its parents back
ONE MANS IDEA
Should at-risk kids be taken from home?
NO CHARTER SCHOOL HERE
A school board rejects a promising plan
REFORM
TRAGEDY'S
LESSONS
Tennessee rethinks day care
THE JAIL ASYLUM
A chief cares for the mentally ill
LIVING WITH DEATH ROW
A warden teaches redemption
PRIVATE PRISONS
The free market fails Jena's juveniles
THE
ARTS
THE
ETERNAL BLUES
A band brings the blues to Gen-Y
NEW VOICE
A black, gay writer learns from Faulkner
ESSAY
Roger Rosenblatt on the meaning of the river
PHOTO: DIANA WALKER FOR TIME
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