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DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI
The Pulse of America

This past April, about a dozen of us from TIME cruised the Mississippi River from Hannibal, MO, home of Mark Twain, to New Orleans, home to our managing editor, Walter Isaacson. What we found was beautiful, unexpected and inspiring. Click on the towns in the map to the left to see a daily dairy from that trip; browse through galleries to your right of some very nice photos, and read the stories we brought back, listed below. There's many a river that waters this land, but none like this one.


OPENER: LIFE ALONG THE RIVER
A land unto itself, where progress is a back road


THE HISTORY
BRINGING BACK MAIN STREET
Iowa residents find creative ways to revive their downtowns

EVOLUTION OF A CREATIONIST
A teacher finds fault with Darwin

MORMONS
A holy temple threatens Nauvoo, Illinois

IMMORTALITY
In St. Louis, a cemetery offers life on film


THE RIVER
HOW FAST SHOULD IT FLOW?
A battle over river traffic

A NEW HUCK FINN
One 25-year-old's passion for the river

THE SINKING CITY
Can New Orleans be kept afloat?


EDUCATION
TEACHING "HUCK FINN"
St. Louis teacher Minnie Phillips on how Twain's novel is not so much about race as it is about freedom

NO MORE WHITE FLIGHT
How a school district won its parents back

ONE MANS IDEA
Should at-risk kids be taken from home?

NO CHARTER SCHOOL HERE
A school board rejects a promising plan


REFORM

TRAGEDY'S LESSONS
Tennessee rethinks day care

THE JAIL ASYLUM
A chief cares for the mentally ill

LIVING WITH DEATH ROW
A warden teaches redemption

PRIVATE PRISONS
The free market fails Jena's juveniles


THE ARTS
THE ETERNAL BLUES
A band brings the blues to Gen-Y

NEW VOICE
A black, gay writer learns from Faulkner

ESSAY
Roger Rosenblatt on the meaning of the rive
r


PHOTO: DIANA WALKER FOR TIME

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