Return to Baghdad

Kadir van Lohuizen for TIME / NOOR

TIME editor and former Baghdad bureau chief, Bobby Ghosh, shows former U.S. soldier, Nate Rawlings, a side of Baghdad he never saw on patrol More »

Photos: Iraq's Fragile Progress

In the aftermath of the troop drawdown, Iraq is still dangerous, but taking tentative steps towards normalcy More »
A Journalist and Soldier Return

Video: Ghosh and Rawlings return to find continued danger but a fragile sort of progress More »
Part 1: Remembrance of Patrols Past

Former U.S. Lieutenant Nate Rawlings returns to Baghdad as a civilian More »
Part 2: A Tourist's Survival Guide

Bobby Ghosh takes Rawlings through the Iraqi capital of Baghdad More »
Part 3: A Feast on the Tigris

Ghosh recalls the first time he shared fish by the Tigris with a U.S. soldier, just before it was too dangerous to venture out More »
Part 4: How to Cook Carp, Iraqi-Style

Rawlings enters a Baghdad restaurant by the Tigris for a feast of traditional Iraqi fried fish More »
Part 5: Triangle of Death

Traveling to what was once one of the most dangerous areas in Iraq, Rawlings recalls comrades lost in the war More »
Part 6: Why the Tribes Feared U.S. Soldiers

Ghosh recalls how the Iraqis regarded the U.S. military More »
Part 7: Where the Dead Have Become Martyrs

Bobby Ghosh finds Fallujah still proud of having made Americans pay with blood More »
Part 8: War's Bitter Aftertaste

Rawlings finds memories of war long and unforgiving More »
Part 9: Two Kinds of Americans

The people of Anbar province learned to prefer one kind of U.S. soldier to another More »
Part 10: Visiting Battlefields

Rawlings visits the area around Ramadi to see how a kind of normal life is taking hold after years of violence More »
Part 11: Touring the Tigris — and the Streets

Ghosh takes a boat ride on the river and an unusual cab ride home More »
Part 12: On the Other Side of the River

Rawlings takes a ride on the Tigris and stops for tea in a shop reconstructed after 2007 blast More »
Part 13: Danger on the Last Day

After a surprisingly uneventful tour of Iraq, Ghosh and Rawlings run into potential trouble More »
Part 14: The Slowest Car Chase in History

On his last day in Baghdad, Rawlings is followed by suspicious-looking men More »
Part 15: Combat Continues

The majority of the action for some troops has come after the decree that combat operations have come to an end More »
Part 16: A Revived Insurgency

Ghosh meets two old Sunni contacts and discovers the bitterness that remains More »