At Liguria Bakery in North Beach, they sell one thing only: perfect focaccia. Perfection comes in five flavors: pizza, onion, cinnamon sugar, garlic and plain. My favorite is the onion, with little bits of green onion and olive oil. Place your order with the forlorn person behind the counter, who will wrap your loaf (or is it a sheet?) of focaccia in waxed paper and tie it up with cotton string from an ancient dispenser in the ceiling. The family that runs the place starts working the ovens early in the morning; they'll hang a Closed sign on the door when they sell out each day — usually by noon. For the people who run Liguria's, each new day must feel like Groundhog's Day; for you, it'll be a $4.25 taste of heaven.

• 1. Liguria Bakery
  1700 Stockton Street, San Francisco, CA 94133; 415-421-3786 37.801413-122.409377