The watery landscape that makes Stockholm so spectacular doesn't stop where the city ends. The archipelago of more than 30,000 islands, islets and skerries stretches out into the Baltic.

A great entrée to the archipelago is Sandhamn. Ferries run regularly from Stavsnäs and take an hour-long course east through the archipelago. In the 18th century, Sandhamn was a base for the professional pilots who guided visiting ships through the treacherous straits, and the Royal Swedish Yacht Club set up shop here in the 19th century. The village charms with clapboard buildings. In the evening, cocktails go down very nicely on the veranda of the Seglarhotellet, tel: (46-8) 5745 0400, which also has well-appointed rooms.

If, however, you can commandeer a craft in Stockholm, you should instead steer a course for the Oaxen Krog, tel: (46-8) 5515 3105, in the archipelago's south. One of Sweden's best restaurants, it caters to a keen sailing crowd. The website, www.oaxenkrog.se, gives the address in coordinates.

• 1. Seglarhotellet
  130 39, Sandhamn, Stockholm, Sweden; (46-8) 5745 0400 59.3833318.41667 Seglarhotellet Sandhamn
• 2. Oaxen Krog
  15393 Mörkö, Stockholm, Sweden; (46-8) 5515 3105 58.9992117.6636 Oaxen Skärgårdskrog