At Czech restaurants, traditional frequently implies heavy. Fortunately, the chefs at stylish La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise prepare their Bohemian tasting menus with a lighter touch. Each of the seven courses is preceded with its own amuse-bouche, so allow at least three hours for a meal here. But time flies thanks to the original fare, which is based on recipes from an 1880 Czech cookbook. Expect the likes of smoked beef tongue with chickpea puree and pickled shallots, and garlic beef tartare under a crusty pastry. There are also real surprises, like a gelatinous tomato meringue that melts to release honey and balsamic vinegar.

• 1. La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise
  Hastalská 18, Praha, Prague, Czech Republic; (420) 222 311 234 50.0912814.42567 La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise