"Art is the thrilling spark that beats death, that's all." So said the late Brett Whiteley, whose wayward brilliance can still be seen at the Brett Whiteley Studio, tel: (61-2) 9225 1740, in arts hub Surry Hills. Unfinished paintings, art equipment and books remain, as does a graffiti wall covered with quotes and images. For the spark of emerging artists, see the nearby First Draft Gallery, tel: (61-2) 9698 3665. When you're done gallery browsing, grab a flat white and a standout brunch at Four Ate Five, or try Reuben Hills' aptly named brothel sandwich in honor of some of the area's more wanton residents.

• 1. Four Ate Five
  485 Crown St, Surry Hills, Sydney, Australia; (61-2) 9698 6485 -33.888145151.213355 fouratefive.com
• 2. Reuben Hills
  61 Albion St, Surry Hills, Sydney, Australia; (61-2) 9211 5556 -33.882827151.210956 reubenhills.com.au
• 3. Brett Whiteley Studio
  2 Raper St, Surry Hills, Sydney, Australia; (61-2) 9225 1740 -33.88874151.21456 brettwhiteley.org
• 4. First Draft Gallery
  116 Chalmers St, Surry Hills, Sydney, Australia; (61-2) 9698 3665 -33.8867151.20668 firstdraftgallery.com